Juniper Estate Chardonnay 2017

Here’s a Margaret River winery with a decidedly quieter profile than the usual suspects (Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Voyager, Leeuwin, Moss Wood, Vasse Felix etc) but delivering genuine, regional styles.

I really enjoyed this Chardonnay. It’s so well balanced, with funk AND flavour. No half-arsed anaemic nouveau Chardonnay. Just clever balance.

Sourced from the Forest Grove Vineyard, it’s mainly Gin Gin and 95 clones – which is de rigueur for Margaret River – that is handpicked, wild ferment in barrel and then matured for 10 months in 45% new oak. Has a flirt with struck match, but not to excess, the palate dancing between just-ripe grapefruit (thanks Gin Gin) and pithy acidity. It’s delicious, fresh and vital. But it’s still made from ripe fruit. Classy wine and well priced. Best drinking: Now and up to four years easy. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $40. Would I buy it? Yes.