Shout it from the rooftops – Eldorado Road, as a label, should be much more famous. The wines are too interesting, too keen, too complex to be ‘just another Victorian producer’. Let this Eldorado Road Chardonnay 2018 be evidence.

It’s everything you want in Beechworth Chardonnay. Ripe, golden peach juice style that has fruit flavour but the acidity is crisp. Importantly, it’s full-bodied, rather than trying to be lean, with nutty yellow peach fruit and a powerful palate offset by correct acidity. You can see the winemaking work at play here, and it delivers depth of flavour and complexity. I’m a fan.  Best drinking: why wait. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.6%, $37. Would I buy it? Absolutely.