A confession – I’ve never been to Kangaroo Island. It’s the only Australian wine GI I’ve not visited. The outlier. And with wines like this Juxtaposed Boomstick Tempranillo 2018, it’s an island of promise.

That said, I can’t think of a ‘KI’ wine that I’ve loved before this. The wine scene within the region feels fragmented, sparse, unrealised. What has been missing?

As with the rest of Wes Pearson’s Juxtaposed wines this is lively. It’s high toned and bright, yet not about fruit, with the 25% whole bunches a background influence, the style more contemporary Rioja than something oaky and dusty. You’re better off comparing it to mod McLaren Grenache than a traditional crianza. Bright, fruit, but it gets darker and deeper, with vanilla bean richness filling out the mid palate, then earthen, real tannins finishing things off.

What a success. Ripe, varietal, real, tannic. Not overdone. Savoury. Drying. Appropriately intense. What a welcome surprise.

Best drinking: now to ten years. 18/20, 93/100+. 13.5%, $29. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle at this price.