Martin Shaw & Michael Hill-Smith’s Pinot has had a constant evolution, the style evolving from a robust, dry reddish Pinot to now more medium bodied and with a fruit source of Lenswood, higher up in the hills. Works too, with this Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir 2018 anything but heavy.

In fact it’s rounded, mouthfilling and silken. Serve it to me blind and you’d be forgiven calling it Grenache, though without the warmer clime glycerol and alcohol. It arguably has less pinosity, but maybe more drinkability than some releases. Affable. Charming, if just a little too raspberried without the savour to match. Still, I challenge you not to like it. Best drinking: now to five yearsish. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $45. Would I buy it? We’ll share a bottle.