Last week it was the excellent Eldorado Road Chardonnay, now comes the Eldorado Road Quasimodo Nero d’Avola Durif Shiraz 2017 and it’s a winner.

This is a lot of wine for $29. A blend of 64% Nero d’Avola / 21% Shiraz / 15% Durif from Eldorado (near Beechworth) and Rutherglen. Deep, dark, sinful nose – pure NE Victoria. The palate flirts with figgy overripeness, dark fruit, Christmas cake rich. But it’s pulled back from the brink, not toppling over into desiccation. The tannins are still drying, the flavours still ripe and dark, yet with a sense of balance. Class. Intensity perfectly contained. Well done.

Best drinking: I’d like to see it next year ideally, and it will look good for ten years easy. 18/20, 93/100. 13.4%, $29. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.