It’s always a surprise to see generosity in taut, early picked Hunter Valley Semillon. It shouldn’t be that way. The best wines are often ferociously acidic drinks for later. The larvae stage, all green and dull. But sometimes, you get Hunter Semillon that has both acidity and flavour – and they’re always pleasurable.

This Meerea Park Casuarina Vineyard Semillon 2018 brings the pleasure. It’s waxy, and lemon-lime chunky, like a fruit juice. You wouldn’t call it classic, but you wouldn’t call it inferior either. It’s that blending component that gives the mid-palate chunkiness, needing a friend with a bit of discipline to bring life in order. And I’m all for wine like this – friendly, without being simple, the concentration unquestioned. It’s the mate that comes over, six pack in hand, after a long day. Someone who doesn’t always have the answers, but is always good company (and the wine is well priced too).

Best drinking: I’d go earlier rather than later. Drink from now until ten years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 11%, $31.50. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.