This is easily the pick of the new Brash Higgins wines, and reminds that Merlot can be delicious in good hands, even from McLaren Vale (which is hardly Merlot central). Raised in amphora, which clearly works to bring out the vitality, there’s this flush of bright, black jube fruit but its offset by meaty tannins and a really firm extractive edge this vintage, It’s maybe not as pretty as some other MRLO releases, the tannins just a little raw, but the dark jelly bean punch make this so substantial and ultimately satisfying.

Best drinking: now to six years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.8%, $39. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.