The Hanging Rock site in the Macedon Ranges is famously chilly, so the table wines can sometimes suffer. But there’s a delicacy of wines like this that is pretty attractive.

The Jim Jim is the top dog of the Pinot range and is certainly spicy, bony and a little minty, the red fruit fighting through the acidity and firm tannins. It’s not unripe, but there’s a bit of the Alsace Pinot vibe going on here – a picture of acidity and understatement. Drinkable though. Best drinking: from now to at least five years. It’s not going to fall over. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.7%, $50