Rising is an offshoot from the Sticks winery, centred around a vineyard in the Christmas Hills subregion of the Yarra Valley.

As an aside, what a great name for an (unofficial) subregion. I just imagine white snowy mountains, reindeer, candy canes, snowmen etc etc.

Nothing of that actually happens in the Yarra, except a rampant wild deer population. Nice place to grow grapes and make wine, however, and winemaker Anthony Fikkers is nothing if not clever – and these new 2019 Rising releases are excellent.

The Rising Gamay 2019 comes from the Roundstone Vineyard, with fruit left as 100% whole bunches for the initial part of ferment and pressed off early for 6 months in old oak.

It’s an unusual wine as a result, with profound exuberance, tempered by ever present stalky grip. Quite a contrast. It’s like herbal tea, though cut with vibrant raspberry fruit, and although it’s stalky, I’d call it more spice than something hard (and astringent). Long finish too and a general sense of precision.

Is it easy? Maybe not. Is it intriguing? All the way. Best drinking: don’t be fooled, this is much more smashable than you think, though I’d drink nowish. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $35. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two as a thought piece alone.