Immediately attractive Yarra Pinot from Brad Atkins & Matthew Davis’ Dixon’s Creek vineyard. All the Steels Gate wines are sapid and vital but this is a step up in weight.

Sappy, mulchy and super serious red fruit style with a real tang. Maybe a fraction too stalky and drying, but has lovely lucid fresh red fruit to back it up. I could drink lots of this, even if it might need six months for top form. Best drinking: late 2020 to five or so years. 18/20, 93/100+. 13.5%, $?. Would I buy it? I’m not sure about the price. If it’s sub $45, I’m keen for a bottle.