Burton McMahon George’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018

The latest release from Matt Burton & Dylan McMahon’s Yarra project. Sometimes these wines have looked a little too lean, but this release looks riper, bolder and more composed.

From the George’s Vineyard in the Upper Yarra this has sappy red raspberry fruit, bark, menthol and tang. Sappy and sapid, it’s even a little warm to finish. Presence, subtle power, complexity – it’s a real wine, though it just doesn’t quite feel easy to drink. Is it wrong that I want more seduction here?

Best drinking: now to five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $40. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.