A new Tasmanian name and you can feel/taste the promise. To have a wine in shape like this after five years? Attention grabbed.

Sourced from a plot in the Upper Derwent, this Kate Hill Pinot Noir 2015 has pure Burgundian DNA, hold the cliché. Evolving, and savoury, faintly bitter and autumnal, but with a core that is all powerful fruit. I wouldn’t call it an easy drink – too dark and meaty to qualify as a Pinot seductress. But the dark heart beating deep inside this red pumps strong, the structure, the intent, the width all A1.

Intellectual Pinot that I like. Would love to see a youger version for contrast.

Best drinking: now. Don’t wait. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $37. Would I buy it? Worth a contemplative glass or two.