Every time. Every wine.

There’s a detail in all of the Levantine Hill ‘Paddock’ wines that is hard to ignore. It’s a nod to winemaking skill (hat tip Paul Bridgeman), to vineyard resource (with a hat tip also to viti guy Cameron Joyce) and to plentiful resources. Nothing but net.

Actually, the only quibble with wines like this Levantine Hill Katherine’s Paddock Chardonnay 2017 is the price. Value is in the eye of the beholder and all that jazz. But still, $125 is a lot of dollars when something like Oakridge 864 is $70.

Anyway, this is high quality, finely detailed Yarra Chardonnay that I absolutely admire. Tight, cool and reserved on the nose with some passing reductive banana, the expensive oak and perfectly-ripe fruit both playing a role. The palate follows a similar script, as careful barrel influence plays a part, with vanilla custard, white nectarine and then a refined and quite shy palate. It’s is a little oak-full and lean, but the detail and class is unquestioned, with not a hair out of place.

Best drinking: now to seven years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $125. Would I buy it? Not at that price. I’d drink your bottle though.