Alex Byrne has been busy.

In 2016, Byrne left his job as winemaker at Lethbridge to devote himself full time to his Byrne Wines, Liquid Rock’n Roll, and Noisy Ritual projects.

I first tasted some of the Byrne Wines releases a few years back (with this Chardonnay making a mark) and since then all the wines have lobbed up with flavour and charisma.

Somehow this Byrne Wines Coghills Creek Pinot Noir 2017 from Alex slipped through the net, which is annoying as the quality is high.

This comes from the Myola Vineyard in Ballarat. Handpicked, wild ferment. Has this sour plum plumpness, which is less Pinot, almost like cool clime Shiraz than Pinot. Ripe, sappy and deadly serious, with furry tannins and a long finish. Impact. Super vinous and not just another fruity red, which makes it perhaps more for Pinot lovers (like me), but quality and interest.

Best drinking: now to five years or more. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $38. Byrne Wines website. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle easy.