Dead serious Victorian Nero. Typically generous and black-fruited. But it’s also such a savoury wine, with this Eldorado Road Comrade Nero d’Avola 2018 carrying a limitless, a blackness. Compelling in its varietal interpretation, even if it’s not a wine of instant appeal. Nero to savour, with more to come.

Best drinking: good now, likely even better in 12-18 months. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 13.3%, $37. Eldorado Road website. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.