Autentico Sangiovese. This Pizzini Forza di Ferro Sangiovese 2016 has red fruit and leather, the palate just medium-bodied, slightly ferrous with the fruit very much downplayed for savouriness.

Every time I think about the Pizzini Sangiovese range I think it about how varietal and real this wine tastes, no doubt helped by having the right clones planted in the right place. I feel the inspiration, the tannins – it all feels grounded in what Sangiovese is meant to be.

Best drinking: now to ten years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.8%, $55. Pizzini Wines website. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.