Energetic nouveau style King Valley red. This Pizzini La Volpe Nebbiolo 2018 has bright raspberry fruit and light tannins, the delivery unadulterated by oak, the overall effect so energetic. Even packs in some ‘tar and roses’ varietal character.

Not the most powerful or tannic, but vibrant flavour and real character. Best drinking: now to seven years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.8%, $28. Pizzini website. Would I buy it? I would and drink half a bottle easily.