Like all of the Steels Gate wines, this Steels Gate Home Block Blanc de Blancs 2016 is a model of delicacy.

Pure and vital, it’s all white flowers and marzipan, the palate carrying a lightly sour, waxy lemon character that is gently textural and breezy. Great acidity and purity, what’s missing is that essential second layer. Lees, oak… something to flesh out the lively palate. Easy drinking aperitif style though. Best drinking: now to at least four years. 17/20, 90/100. 11.2%, $45. Steels Gate website. Would I buy it? A glass.