Indomitus is the boundary-pushing label of Gundog, and this Indomitus Albus 2019 is a blend of Hunter Semillon and Gewurztraminer with Canberra Riesling. Weird, but it works.  Quintessentially dry and crisp, but then layers cascade in – a pinch of Gewurz terpenes on the nose, some grip courtesy of the partial skin contact Semillon, the fruit a lively citrus flow with subtle complex too. Like a modern Alsace white, just cast in a much more Australian context. Really quite enjoyable drinking.

Best drinking: now to ten plus years. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $40. Gundog website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.