Modern Yarra Pinot be damned, this Seville Estate Pinot Noir 2019 is smoky, smouldering, meaty and tangy, the style lifted by acidity and morello cherry with a little bacon on the edges.

Vinous, real and ultimately very drinkable in its ye old school Yarra savoury style. Savoury not glossy. Easy to dismiss on first glance but you’ll be engrossed come the third glass over dinner.

Best drinking: now to at least five years. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $35. Seville Estate website. Would I buy it? Off a list this would be a very natural choice.