Stylistically akin to the best Hunter Semillon, this Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne 2014 is a fascinating piece.

Sourced from a patch of Marsanne vines that dates back to 1927 (who knew!) it’s even built in a Hunter Semillon mode – early picked fruit, cool fermentation, released with some bottle age. The Tahbilk soil types are sandy loams too – it’s all meant to be.

At six years old, this is just entering its peak drinking window. Waxy, lanolin edged palate combines understated, gently honey edges, with pithy, grapefruit and apple through the middle, the finish lightly toasty and gently powerful. That last part is important – it’s much firmer, deeper and more powerful than you realise, almost chewy. That whisper of Marsanne honeysuckle is the counterpoint to the acidity too. It all adds up to pleasure and charisma that will be delivered for decades. I’m a big fan.

Best drinking: honestly I’d wait until early next year and then drink over the next ten years plus. 18.5/20, 94/100. 11%, $46.30. Tahbilk website. Would I buy it? Yes. A bargain given the easy cellarability.