I missed most of the Zoom Virtual Tasting for this St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2018 so I’m missing a little context. But suffice to say it’s ala very different wine given to most Blackwell before it.

The first thing you notice is what’s not there – new American oak. Helen McCarthy’s new mode for this proudly old school Barossa Shiraz sees that trademark sweet oak plushness traded for dark fruited polish. While that might annoy rusted-on fans, it marks this as Barossa Shiraz for the twenties.

Round. Boldly fruit-driven, plush and proudly St Hallett in its plush fruit, the tannins not featuring, the finisb light. It’s still full bodied and enveloping rich, but tauter now. Is it sex machine super smooth sweet chocolate berry oak and fruit all the way? No. But it is pretty clever wine. Best drinking: good now. I don’t see it really getting better, just more rounded. 14.5%, $54.99. 18/20, 93/100. St Hallett website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.