Skin contact white wines work. Getting the balance between acidity, fruit and phenolics isn’t easy, but when the stars align, a little skin transforms neutral white wine into textural playground.

This Susuro Vermentino 2019 isn’t quite at Movieworld level of fun, but there’s interest here. It’s Alpine Valleys Vermentino from ex-De Bortoli winemaker and China export guru Nikki Palun, with all the Susuro wines interesting (so far).

It’s gently nutty, yet still taut, with a whisper of pear and Gaytime, the palate broadly textured through the middle but not to finish, the overall effect a push/pull of fruit flavour and tang. For this style it works reasonably well, if not quite cohesive. Perfect wine bar fare if you just want a glass. Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12.5%, $28. Susuro website. Would I buy it? A glass.