Refreshment, thy name is Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2020. As ever, Gardenia aromatics, ultra crisp lemon, lemongrass and grapefruit, the palate trim, sour in a correct lemony form. It’s very refreshing, arguably too taut, but such blinding intensity and purity of purpose. It’s just a little bit edgy, rather than being sumptuous, but my God it’s fresh. And all this for $25? Wow.

Best drinking: now. Purely for that flavour hit. 18/20, 93/100. Castle Rock website. 12.4%, $25. Would I buy it? Yes.