From Daniel and Jenni Payne’s Dirt Candy label; part of the new wave of Hunter wine, complete with a suite of pet nats and such. This is an outlier too – a Hunter Valley Shiraz Cab. If Tyrrell’s can do the blend, why not? 70/30 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, with just 85 dozen produced.

Shiny and fresh, oak still has that fresh bottled mocha gloss. Mid-weight, bright purple fruit through the middle, fine tannins to finish. Classy, well-formed and quite polished Hunter red if just a little simple. Likeable and well priced, just needing another gear for big points. Nice wine though for such a modest price.

Best drinking: now to ten years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5%, $26. Dirt Candy website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.