Fascinating wines in this Susuro range. They don’t always work, but modern style and swagger. This is Pyrenees Nebbiolo from the Malakoff Vineyard, with plenty of glacé cherry varietal charisma, the bony and light palate looks like it could be from Valtellina rather than Barolo, although has some fragrance. Style, but a little underdone.

Best drinking: now to 8 years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.5%, $49. Susuro website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.