Yarra Valley in full luncheon claret mode. That’s the pitch with this Zonzo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 in all its leafy, elegant glory. It’s understated, driven by acidity, elegance and lightly bitter tannins. A wine to sneak up on you with its genteel quality, just needing a little more concentration to be great.

Best drinking: now to ten plus years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $27. Zonzo Estate website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.