Mount Gambier has a surprising volume of Pinot Noir in the ground. Limestone soils too. But Pinot country? Yeah nah. The delicacy is almost never there. Even for the Coola Vineyard which is a unique site. Just plant Cabernet/Shiraz.

Anyway, rant over, this Coola Road Pinot Noir 2017 is sappy, varietal and surprisingly bony. it’s varietal if a little ungenerous, cleary early picked, the mid palate is fuller than the rest and it drives the whole wine. It elevates things, to use corporate speak. Pleasant, but a wine that asks more why questions than answers.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 12.5%, $28. Coola Road website. Would I buy it? No.