Inzolia is an ancient Sicilian white grape that I’ve not seen outside Italy or international wine shows. Blind, you’d be hard-pressed to pick what it is – there’s a nutty tang here that reminds me of Pecorino, but it’s usually picked early and made fresh and simple. This Feudo Arancio is plenty drinkable too – it’s the sort of wine which you’d smash a few carafes of at an Agrigento trattoria. Imported by Single Vineyard Sellers.

Lightly fragrant with a faint black currant perfume, a whisper of musk and apricot, before a tangy, light and crisp palate with a phenolic pucker. Not bad. More Malvasia than Pecorino this time around with those florals. I don’t see the nuttiness, but I like the tang. Simple good drinking summer white regardless.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13%, $20. Would I buy it? A glass or two.