Marlborough Gruner has lots of promise. It’s going to take time for the vine age and w winemaking to catch up, but I can see the promise. This Jules Taylor Gruner Veltliner 2020 is very much the style that will be most popular – taut, aromatic, crunchy. Imported to Australia by Single Vineyard Sellers.

Has some of the lime celery varietal tang of good Gruner with some cool, aromatic yeast lift. Fresh white wine, and a good phenolic bite, if not quite profound in its intensity. It’s an easy fresh drink, maybe not ultra varietal, but a good ad for Gruner’s drinkability.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13%, $25. Jules Taylor website. Would I buy it? A glass.