This Clover Hill Cuvée Exceptonelle Brut Rosé 2015 is really well done Australian fizz. Not as glorious as the non rosé bubbles, perhaps, but still very good.

Importantly, it’s tight and taut but not hard. Lean, but still with suggestions of strawberry fruit. The perfume, the subtle yeast notes, the delicacy. Champagne production is all over this, and the fruit is up to the task. It’s a bit simple to take on equivalent vintage grand marque, but look at the price! Class and balance, all here. Yes yes. Best drinking: don’t wait. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $63. Clover Hill website. Would I buy it? Well worth a few glasses.