If I had a vineyard in beautiful Denmark (WA Denmark, not the European one), I wouldn’t plant Pinot. Why bother? You know it’s going to be a slog, and mostly you’ll end up making half baked dry reds. Tempranillo, Mencia, Shiraz, whatever would all be easier than Pinot when every time you’d just get compared to some Yarra red for the same price. Anyway, enough damning, this Apricus Hill Pinot Noir 2019 is actually a solid wine. I’d be grafting the vines over (maybe to more Chardonnay, which Apricus does well), but it’s still a very solid result.

Plump and rounded bold Pinot with a big chunky middle and faintly bitter finish. Hardly elegant and warm to finish, but varietal and great concentration. Will win over many, and that’s all that counts. Drink slightly chilled to tone down the alcohol and you’re right to go. Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14%, $35. Apricus Hill website. Would I buy it? A glass.