Following a long list of a very long list of strong wines (here, here) comes two very good 2019 Burton McMahon Pinot Noir releases.

I like drinking these Yarra reds. They’re mid-weight, thoughtfully constructed, serious attempts at terroir pieces, both well priced, and with a story to tell. More, please. As a cellar door release, these would also be the perfect foil to the Gundog range of reds (wines are made by Dylan McMahon of Seville Estate & Matt Burton at Gundog).

The only thing I’m not 100% on is the labels. I’d go simplicity over the weird sideways text. Or stick it on a back label.

For anyone who has been playing at home for a few releases now, these ’19s are a bit riper than some of the leaner vintages and it helps up the seduction aplenty. As with both wines, handpicked, 30% whole bunches in the ferment, 30% new oak for 10 months.

$40/bottle is also very fair, especially when you have so many look-at-me-I’m-in-the-fucking-Yarra-dress-circle wineries with equivalent quality for $70.

Burton McMahon Syme on Yarra Pinot Noir 2019

The Syme on Yarra Vineyard lies in the Upper Yarra, near Seville on an east-facing block of all MV6. Theoretically, that translates into a lighter wine. It is lighter? Probably not, but it is the most complete of the two. Immediately this has lovely acidity and delicacy – a lovely, affable, yet serious Australian Pinot. There’s this red fruit translucency here which feels good, right, real. Plenty of whole bunch spice, plenty to grab onto. It’s just a light-but-substantial modern Yarra Pinot. Best drinking: good for at least five years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $40

Burton McMahon George’s Pinot Noir 2019

Also from the Upper Yarra, this time the George’s Vineyard in Seville East. It’s north-facing, planted to clones 777 & 114/115. Tomato bush and spice, with understated red fruit underneath. Although it has slightly less acidity than the Syme It feels bonier; a leafy and restrained mod Aus Pinot. Real ferrous tang too – the whole bunch shows through more here. Has more tomato concentrate body than you’d first expect and the final package feels long, firm, considerable. Good Pinot, if not as transcendent as old mate Syme. Best drinking: within five years. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $40.