Something beyond fruit, oak and tannin. That’s what makes Pinot great. Especially if it’s Burgundy, which is the king/queen/choose your figurehead of complex red wine. This De Bortoli Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir 2018 isn’t Burgundy, and comparing all Pinot to Burgundy is lame and cliche. But this does have some of that Burgundian something extra.

Muscular ripe red fruit, truffle, sous bois, rich oak, licks of stout tannins. It’s Pinot of might and power, yet with this just-so wild edge that makes it a more than one glasser.

It’s maybe a bit too bold, like many ’18 Yarra Pinots. But satisfying in its chunky, Pinosity, this definitely is.

De Bortoli Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir 2018. Best drinking: over the next five years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $45. De Bortoli website. Would I buy it? Well worth a bottle.