I feel like a broken record banging out about how good the recent Tokar Estate releases have been. But you can mark down this Tokar Estate Coldstream Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 as another masterful Yarra Chardonnay from an estate deserving of a bigger profile.

Drawn from older vines on the property, this single vineyard release spends just 9 months in 60% new oak. Doesn’t need any more time in barrel than that, judging on this form. It doesn’t go through malo either, which means more grapefruit acidity on the profile. If anything it’s a bit lean, a bit wound up in structure and form, with an overlay of very fine vanilla. But the palate is plenty ripe enough, with well-handled white peach fruit to make that acidity not feel pointy. Indeed, this is a very well-judged white, built on acidity, but not hard. Modern, bright, and delicious. Very good.

Tokar Estate Coldstream Vineyard Chardonnay 2019. Best drinking: I think it will be even better next year. Then over the next five for a start. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $50. Tokar website. Would I buy it? Yes.