Sangiovese, from a region not known for Sangiovese (Bendigo), but looking everything bit as autentico as you’d want. Good, drinking fare in this Balgownie Black Label Sangiovese 2018.

It’s cliche, but this is Tuscan stew friendly. Ahh, I miss Italy. Anyway, the moderate alcohol, the black and red ‘forest’ fruits, the grippy tannin. It’s a little lean and tannin-led (just like plenty of Vino Nobile if you’re looking for comparisons), which makes sense given the approach (all Brunello clone too), It’s not going to win show awards, but with that stew? Yeah.

Best drinking: now and for at least five years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.2%, $28. Balgownie website. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle with takeaway pasta (#lockdown life).