I’ve written recently about the absolute glory of the commemorative release Balgownie Old Vine Cabernet, and although this Balgownie Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 is just the ‘standard’ wine, it shares so much of that big dog, I’m going to live forever, timelessly long and regal Balgownie Cabernet DNA (and it’s delicious).

It’s a great vintage of Balgownie Cab. Proudly varietal, with cassis, cedar, pencil shavings, blueberries and dark chocolate. It’s more on the fuller-bodied side of the fence, but it’s not heavy – substantial, tannic, and all-round powerful. Grabs at you with grainy tannin from both oak and fruit. It’s a little warm to finish, but not deal-breaking. Importantly, this tastes unlike Coonawarra Cabernet, or Margaret River Cabernet or Yarra Cabernet or any other region’s Cabernet, and it’s all the better for it. Nice wine.

Balgownie Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017. Best drinking: now or in twenty years time. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14%, $45. Balgownie website. Would I buy it? Yes.