David Lloyd’s barrel-fermented Sauv Blanc, whcih was made by Imogen Dillon from 10x By Tractor in 2020.

This Eldridge Estate Fumé Blanc 2020 was fermented in barrel, where it then spent the next four months. There’s a bit of the Sancerre sweaty sock here, plus Lemon and cheese. It’s closer to riper Sancerre really than NZ Sauv, save for a late passionfruit hit.

Not a bad textural white this too, even if it feels a bit ignoble. Plenty going on, even if the thrusts of acidity and lemony cheese aren’t quite cohesive (or at least I don’t appreciate it).

Eldridge Estate Fumé Blanc 2020. Best drinking: over the next 2-3 years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $35. Eldridge Estate website. Would I buy it? A glass.