Long live the richer, more buxom style of Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay. While modern, finessed, ‘no malo here’ Australian Chardonnay has its place, there is a lot to be said for more fuller styles, like this Eldridge Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 from David Lloyd.

There’s magic here, as this retains its acidity and shape despite the flavour volume. Real golden fruit. Grilled nuts, yellow peach, a sense of golden fruit flavour. Yet it’s taut, not prickly, and rather linear. Lovely sense of old school fruit ripeness without fat, which makes it interesting and satisfying. Gold medal quality Chardonnay.

Eldridge Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2018. Best drinking: now to five years (at least). 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $60. Eldridge website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle off a list. France Soir would be ideal for this.