This is the entry point for the range, but with this Tapanappa Piccadilly Chardonnay 2020, Brian (Croser) has delivered a wine that is anything but simple.

It’s not specified, but the intensity and breadth here taste more like the glorious Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay, so I’m presuming it’s a barrel selection of the bits that don’t fit Tiers or 1.5m Tiers.

Expansive, white peach and hazelnuts on nose and palate. It doesn’t quite have the same delineation as the top dog wins but the house style makes this a winner regardless. Mid weight, fresh, yet powerful mode. Clean too. A bargain, full-flavoured Chardonnay.

Tapanappa Piccadilly Chardonnay 2020. Best drinking: no hurry, over the next five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.9%, $39. Tapanappa website. Would I buy it? Yes.