Robert Heywood (Taltarni winemaker) has really transformed the recent releases of Taltarni. Gone is the overripeness, and instead there is a sense of regionality. One key difference is extraction – historically, the Taltarni reds can look hard-edged and dry out quickly (or conversely, live forever). But a gentler touch has really helped. This Taltarni Old Vine Estate Shiraz 2019 is v. good, with my only gripe that the ‘Old Vine’ label is little different to the standard. Even a little gold trim would work.

Anyway, fascinating to have this soon after the Craiglee Shiraz 2017. It’s not quite as effortless but instead trades in power and this spiced sausage purple fruit. Very good. There is still the firm tannin, yet offset by sweet berried, ‘I’m actually from a cool climate’ sage/pepper edged red fruit. Such a change from the Taltarni of circa ten years ago. Classy,. just over mid-weight red AND doesn’t show its alcohol at all. Sophisticated and good.

Taltarni Old Vine Estate Shiraz 2019. Best drinking: good now to twenty years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $50. Taltarni website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.