The winemaking has shifted only slightly, but this Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2019 feels different. More pith, more complexity, more layers. It’s a Roussanne like you want it to be, which is very rare in Australia.

From 16yo, biodynamically farmed vines in McLaren Vale. Half goes to ceramic eggs, and spends 193 days on skins. while the other half goes into eggs but no skins. Final blend 40% skin contact, 60% sans skins. Numbers: TA 6.3g/L, pH 3.42.

Phew, no wonder it’s a complex wine.

Much more golden yellow this vintage. Don’t drink this too cold, is my pick, as you miss some of the yellow apple fruit. Golden, nutty and yet retains the crunch it’s quite a mouthful – waves of texture, moving between richer bits, pithy bits and then freshness to finish. Much more interesting with more skin contact this year. Long too. Maybe not an easy drink (and just a little warm), but an interesting one. A contemplation piece, and all the better for it.

Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2019. Best drinking: now but no hurry. It’s going to live for at least five, likely more, and get more round. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $60. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.