Sourced from a single vineyard in Denmark, this Apricus Hill Chardonnay was quite a large wine in previous iterations, but now it’s much more subtle. Despite the alcohol this is very much an acid driven lean style, the fruit just peaking out behind some new, albeit subtle, oak and then with plenty of acidity to finish. It’s all a bit taut and tight for the moment, but the signs are pretty good, and the oak tannins on the tail should integrate withe time too.

Apricus Hill Chardonnay 2020. Best drinking: drink from mid next year and then next three years for a start. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 13.5%, $35. Apricus Hill website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.