Another charismatic iteration of this northern Victorian red blend. 60/24/16 varietal split with Nero d’Avola from Eldorado, Shiraz from Dulcies in Glenrowan and the Mt Pilot Vineyard at Eldorado, plus Rutherglen Durif. Moderate, spice flecked and initially seems more about plum Shiraz fruit if anything, at least before the black fruit Nero kicks in. There are layers of dark fruit, complexity, all sorts of sullen smoked meaty edges alongside the brambly cranberry fruit. There’s a rhubarb tang too and thick grained tannins. Moody, dark and powerful intrigue. So much wine for so few dollars.

Best drinking: now and for another decade easy. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.6%, $29. Eldorado Road. Would I buy it? Yes.