While Matt Burton’s Gundog Shiraz range is strong, this is my favourite wine in the Canberra range – a blisteringly fresh and defined Riesling. Water clear and mighty expressive, all high toned, slightly eatery florals and blossom. Palate is riper than you expect, tending to green melon and then lime tang to finish. Cleansing, not harsh and lovely vitality. It’s very taut and pristine stuff – like peering into a vat full of Riesling juice that has just been drained out of the press.

Best drinking: I like it now. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12%, $45. Gundog Estate website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.