Prepare yourself, these 2019 Oakridge Cabs are very different beasts to most Australian Cabernet-based reds.

One peek at the alcohol on this Oakridge Vineyard Series Oakridge Cabernet 2019 tells the story – it’s a svelte, light and bright red that takes more cues from a modern Loire cab Franc than anything rich and Bordeaux-like.

And it works. There’s this faintly leafy raspberried fruit nose, a volume of gentle red fruit, and rather fine tannins. Vibrancy, and clearly a light touch in the winery, and it adds to the gracefulness – though I found myself searching for my tannins. Joyful, but not as profound as other vintages. Still, fennel, raspberry, balanced acidity, all in check. A v. nice drink too.

Oakridge Vineyard Series Oakridge Cabernet 2019. Best drinking: I like this now. Don’t be surprised it lives forever though – and you can drink for a decade. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.8%, $44. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.