Probably the most awkward wine in the excellent Longview Macclesfield range, this Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 is nothing if not varietal.

Cedary and dark, with molten yet leafy edged dark fruit, the style mid-weight and true to form yet riper than you think. it’s a little angular, a little firm, a little ripe, all at once. Not a bad wine (and the score reflects it), but I’d still be grafting this over to Nebbiolo/Shiraz/barbera/more Riesling (as they’re Longview’s star varieties) if I was the Saturno boys, but hey it’s just me.

Longview Macclesfield Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. Best drinking: no hurry. It will be alive still in a decade. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $45. Longview website. Would I buy it? A glass.