Now this is a structured red. Maybe a bit minty, but gee it’s got a sense of purpose. And at $25, this Smith & Hooper Cabernet Merlot 2019 (sub $20 on spec) it’s a steal.

Spearmint, dark fruit that seems riper than 13.5% and a palate that, while a little drying, has got more length than you would get in many $30 wines. It could be a little less firm, but will live and give real flavour.

Good stuff.

Best drinking: now and then for a decade. Yes, you heard me. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $25. Smith & Hooper website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.