What do you think of the label on this new Apogee Alto Pinot Noir 2020?

When I first saw it I thought ‘golden ticket’. Hard to photograph too (and I’m a shit photographer). But the ruby red liquid inside is glorious.

Sourced from Andrew Pirie’s Apogee Vineyard at Lebrina in the Tamar Valley, there’s a class to this that is a comfortable step above so much Australian Pinot Noir. More complexity and delivered effortlessly. Andrew sees this style as ‘an endeavour to make a wine that evolves over time to echo the great wines of Volnay’. Wonderful. More please Mr Pririe. Cold soak, wild ferment, the Burgundian recipe book is rolled out to full effect. Do you know what I really like though? The tasting note matches the wine.

Cherry fruit, some cooler vintage mint and leafiness, the fruit vivid, gently textured and fine boned. There isn’t quite the tannin profile of some Volnay, but the clarion red fruit and lithe palate is something beautiful.

A standout wine, no matter the packaging.

Apogee Alto Pinot Noir 2020. Best drinking: good now, good in 3-5 years. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $65. Apogee website. Would I buy it? You could get 2 bottles of this or a single bottle of 1er cru Volnay. I know what I’d pick.