As I was tasting this Torzi Matthews Syrah, I kept thinking about the Souhaut I had on holidays back in May. That Saint Joseph had the same peppered red fruit Syrah character and liveliness, but this backs it up with tannins and body and flavour. They share so much, stylistically, just that this wine had the volume number turned up higher.

The production story for the Torzi Matthews Francesca Grillo Collina Calcarea Syrah 2021 is a post in itself, but suffice to call it a low fi Eden Valley Shiraz made with 30% whole bunches, fermented in old milk vats, matured in older oak, bottled without fining, filtering or preservatives. Nice.

All juice it is too. Great colour, it’s like ink. But overripe it is not – tilled earth, plush black jellybean and dark berries, fine tannins and just a real liveliness. Mid weight, very much a Syrah, yet that olive tapenade thing is pure Eden too.

Maybe needs a little more tannin to be a superstar, But a lovely red.

Best drinking: now. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $38. Torzi Matthews website. Would I buy it? Yes.